Wellington Getaway: Waterfront Walks, Te Papa & Relaxed Days

Last week we headed down from Auckland for a few days away in Wellington, with a short stay at Te Horo Beach as well. It was a simple trip, easy to manage, and very enjoyable.

The early start was made easier with a good strong coffee at the airport before our flight. Always helps to get things going.

On the day we arrived Wellington greeted us with that familiar cool, fresh air. A bit of a change from Auckland, but quite nice once you get used to it. We settled in quickly and spent time walking around the city, just taking things as they came. A bit of browsing in the shops, and a look through the new central library, Te Matapihi ki te Ao Nui. It’s a recently reopened and redeveloped version of Wellington’s main library right in Civic Square, with lots of space to sit, read, or relax.

The library is impressive right from the entrance, with tall palm tree sculptures and colourful décor that make it feel bright and welcoming. Inside, the space is open and modern, with plenty of spots to browse books or just sit quietly. There’s a striking cantilevered area that seems to float above the ground, and yes, there’s a café where you can stop for a drink and a snack. It’s a lovely place to take a break and soak up the atmosphere—definitely more than just a library.

We spent time around Wellington Central and along the waterfront. It’s a good area for walking, and there’s always something to see. I noticed quite a few sculptures along the way, dotted along the waterfront. Some unusual, some quite striking, and they do make you stop and take a second look.

One of the highlights was visiting Museum of New Zealand Te Papa Tongarewa. We spent time in the Gallipoli exhibition, which is very well done and quite powerful. It tells the story of the 1915 Gallipoli campaign, where many New Zealand and Australian soldiers lost their lives, through the personal experiences of eight New Zealanders, using large-scale figures, detailed models, and excerpts from letters and diaries.

The figures are much larger than life, which really makes you stop and take notice. It brings home the scale of what they went through and the human side of the war. It’s not just history on a wall—it feels very real as you walk through and gives you a better understanding of that part of history.

We also visited the New Zealand Portrait Gallery. The exhibition on at the time was Salome: An Angel of History by Yuki Kihara. It follows her alter ego Salome and explores Pacific history through a series of striking photographic works. The exhibition looks at past events, including colonial history, and brings forward stories that are not always told. It was interesting to walk through and see how art can be used to reflect on history in a different way.

After a couple of days, we headed out to Te Horo, a peaceful area quite different from the city. The wide, quiet beach has that wild west coast feel, with driftwood scattered along the shore and steady rolling waves. It’s open and a little rugged, which I quite liked.

We enjoyed walks along the beach, especially in the evenings, finishing the day with soft, calm sunsets—a lovely way to unwind. One evening was especially magical: we played pétanque with friends, drank bubbly, and then our friends cooked pizza in their outdoor oven. We all sat outside to eat together—it was such a magical evening.

Another day we joined a local farm walk fundraiser. It was a relaxed stroll guided by the farmer, with plenty to see along the way — a very enjoyable way to spend time outdoors.

We also visited a couple of friends nearby and spent time in their beautiful garden. We drank rose petal water and ate apple shortcake, then wandered through the garden while our friend pointed out and talked about all the plants. It was interesting, relaxing, and such a lovely way to spend the afternoon.”

We also visited Smisek Kilns, a lovely spot tucked into the bush near Te Horo. The site centres around two historic beehive-style pottery kilns built in 1970–71 by Mirek Smíšek, a Czech-born potter who became one of New Zealand’s most well-known studio ceramic artists. Smíšek was one of the first full-time potters in the country and was especially admired for his salt-glazed pottery. His work was recognised with an OBE in 1990, and the kilns are now listed as a Category 2 historic place, highlighting the importance of studio pottery in New Zealand in the 1970s.

It was a pleasant place to visit — there’s a small bush walk from the car park to the kilns, which makes for a peaceful approach. While we were there, we chatted with the artist in residence, a potter from Japan, who showed us his work and told us about his upcoming exhibition. It was fascinating to hear about his process and why the kilns still matter to artists today. The restored kilns and quiet garden setting made it a calm and enjoyable spot to linger for a while.

The weather stayed kind to us the whole trip — blue skies, little to no wind, and warm temperatures. Wellington can be unpredictable, so we felt very lucky to have such a lovely few days exploring the city, the coast, and the surrounding areas.

On the way to the airport to fly back home, we stopped along at Oriental Bay for coffee from a small cart by the water. It was a lovely spot to sit for a while. The muffins and almond biscuits were jolly good, and the view across the harbour was stunning.

By the time we headed back to Auckland, we felt nicely refreshed. A good mix of city walking, time by the sea, and catching up with lots of friends.

Until the next little trip,

– ♡ Janet