Varanasi: Spiritual and Serene

Varanasi was the next most important place to visit after Agra for me. It is well known to be a spiritual destination and pilgrims come from all over the world to pray here. Each evening an Aarti is held on the river bank and there are always thousands of people who come to witness the prayers and obtain blessings.

A contemplative elderly man sits on a wooden boat, gazing at the riverside landscape of Varanasi during dawn. — A reflective moment on a boat in Varanasi, capturing the serene atmosphere of the Ganges at sunrise.

The atmosphere created by smoke wafting from the ghats, faintly ringing bells, chanting mantras, flowers floating on the river set against the backdrop of a soft misty sunrise or sunset is strangely serene and beautiful.

It feels esoteric and that you have been let into a secret world like nothing you have experienced before. Your first thought is that you would love to share this magic energy with everyone you hold near and dear… and those loved ones who have departed immediately pop into your mind.

Then you hear about the people waiting in the surrounding apartments to return to the river and you think yeah, I get it.

India’s holiest city is bound to have an impact on you.

Here religious feeling reigns supreme, and no sensual thought ever seems to assail these beauteous mingled forms. They come into unconscious contact with each other but only heed the river, the sun, and the splendor of the morning in a dream of ecstasy.
–Pierre Loti

A vibrant scene at the Ghats of Varanasi, with people bathing and performing rituals in the Ganges River, surrounded by colorful clothing and boats. — Pilgrims gathering on the ghats of Varanasi, engaging in rituals along the Ganges River.

Pilgrims gathering on the ghats of Varanasi, engaging in rituals along the Ganges River.

Janet and Helen engaged in conversation on a boat in Varanasi, surrounded by the vibrant atmosphere of the Ganges River.

Things To Do in Varanasi

Sunrise or Sunset Boat Ride: One of the most unforgettable things you can do in Varanasi is take a boat ride on the Ganges – either at sunrise, sunset, or both! It’s a peaceful way to soak up the spiritual atmosphere of this ancient city.
It can be a bit of a scramble finding a reliable boatman, so to avoid any fuss, it’s best to book ahead through your hotel or online. This Sunrise Boat Ride with Ghats & Morning Rituals Tour is a good option. You’ll glide past the ghats while the city wakes up – a truly special time to see the morning rituals, chants, and bathing.
You’ll also pass the burning ghat (Manikarnika Ghat), where cremations take place – a sacred part of life and death in Varanasi.

📸 A note on respect: Please don’t take photos at the cremation ghat. It’s a deeply spiritual and private moment for the families.

A sadhu (holy man) praying with his hands clasped together, sitting on a stone ledge at Varanasi's ghats, with offerings in front of him. — A serene moment captured at the ghats of Varanasi, featuring a sadhu engaged in prayer amidst the ancient city’s spiritual ambiance.

Watch Out for Friendly Scams: You might be approached by people dressed as priests or sadhus offering flowers or a photo with you – and then asking for money. This is quite common. If you’d like to take part in a small river blessing, your guide can help you find an honest flower seller. Many visitors float a little bowl with flowers and a candle on the river – a quiet, thoughtful way to join in the rituals in your own personal way.

💦 About the River Water: Yes, the water is quite polluted. You’ll see lots of people bathing, washing clothes, or even swimming. I didn’t take a holy dip, but I did scoop water onto my head and body a few times. Some splashed into my mouth – I tried not to think too much about it!
My tip: keep your mouth closed on the boat, and carry hand sanitiser and tissues. The boats can be wobbly and you might need to climb across a few to get to yours – a helping hand is always appreciated!

🚶 Walking Tours of Varanasi: Varanasi is often described as the world’s oldest living city – and when you walk through its ancient lanes, you’ll see why. The narrow alleys are full of life, colour, and surprises, but they are easy to get lost in. A walking tour makes it easier, and your guide can explain the history, customs, and beliefs that make this place so unique.
If you’re someone who enjoys a good chat about philosophy or the mysteries of life, your guide will be a willing conversation partner.

Here are some recommended tours by Groovy Tours:

Northern Bazaars & Hidden Alleys: Explore the maze-like alleys of Varanasi’s northern bazaars, where you’ll encounter traditional shops, local artisans, and vibrant street life. This tour offers a glimpse into the daily lives of locals and the rich tapestry of Varanasi’s culture.

Death & Rebirth in Banaras: See the profound spiritual practices of Varanasi with this evening walk. The tour covers significant sites related to the Hindu beliefs of life, death, and rebirth, including visits to cremation grounds and sacred temples.

Evening Street Food Tour: Savour the flavours of Varanasi with a guided street food tour. Taste local delicacies like poori sabzi, jalebi, lassi, and more, while learning about the city’s culinary traditions. This tour is a delightful way to experience Varanasi’s vibrant food scene.

These are all small group tours, easy-paced, and full of local flavour – literally and figuratively.

🕉️ Half-Day Trip to Sarnath: Just 10 km (about 20–30 minutes by car) from Varanasi is the peaceful site of Sarnath – where Lord Buddha gave his first sermon in 528 B.C. in the Deer Park.
This spot is sacred to Buddhists and has beautiful ruins, a peaceful museum, and a sense of calm. It’s worth taking a guided trip here if you’re interested in Buddhist history or just need a break from the intensity of the city.

The Dhamekh Stupa and a golden temple are visible amidst greenery, with people walking on the grounds. — The Dhamek Stupa in Sarnath, an important site commemorating the first sermon of Lord Buddha, surrounded by lush greenery and ancient ruins.

🛏️ Where to Stay in Varanasi

There are lots of hotels in Varanasi for every budget. Some of my picks and where we stayed are listed in this post:
👉 Where to Stay in India – My Best Hotels for a Comfortable Stay

Where to Eat in Varanasi

There are plenty of good places to eat in Varanasi, whether you’re after a proper meal, a quiet café break, or something more local at a dhaba. We usually choose clean and popular spots where the food is freshly prepared and safe for travellers. Here are some of our favourites:

BrijRama Palace Restaurant (Darbhanga Ghat): A peaceful, elegant setting if you want to enjoy a quiet meal with river views. Even if you’re not staying at the hotel, you can book a meal here. Great for lunch or a special dinner.
Aum Café (Assi Ghat): A small café with a cosy feel and friendly staff. They offer filtered coffee, simple meals, and healthy drinks. Very popular with tourists and regulars alike.
Brown Bread Bakery (near Dashashwamedh Ghat): Upstairs café with rooftop seating and a wide menu. They also run a music café nearby. Profits go to a local education project.
Open Hand Café (Assi Ghat): Relaxed, clean café with WiFi and a shop that sells handmade goods. They’re known for breakfasts and coffee. A nice break from the noise outside.
Baati Chokha Restaurant (Teliyabagh): Great for a taste of traditional local fare in a sit-down setting. It has a rustic theme and is very popular with families and travellers.
Poonam Dhaba (near Lanka, BHU area):A clean and simple dhaba with good local food. No frills, but busy and well-loved by university students and locals. Go for lunch or early dinner.
Mishra Bhojanalaya (Godowlia area): Very local, very busy – but travellers recommend it for simple thalis and friendly service. No menu—just point and eat!